[Addicted to NZ]

The worst case is that you will need to run them through a step-down transformer. Mains frequency should not be an issue with electronic equipment. Whether your TV will receive off-air broadcasts in NZ is another question; I'm guessing probably not.

Thnks

Plan on using SKY....so ota will not be an issue.

[bananamuffin]

Bose Sound Dock? Got one for Christmas and definitely want to bring it over.

The only electronics I'm planning on bringing are my Wii, the Bose Sound Dock, our ipods, and our laptops (two macbooks and an IBM thinkpad).

[PonyGirl]

My husband and I just moved to NZ from the US and brought a fair amount of electronics with us. We brought our 46" Sharp Aquos LCD TV and it works fine. It was multi-voltage so it works fine on the power. We pick up the local channels using a freeview box and HDMI cable, so a Sky box would work as well. Our US PS3 is internally switching multi-voltage and we just got new power supplies for our XBox 360 Nintendo Wii and all work fine. We are using a step-down transformer for our speaker system and only turn it on when when we need to, but it works great. I highly recommend researching all your electronics and calling the manufacturer to find out what is multi-voltage and what isn't. Its worth buying electronics in the US that can be used over here because it is SO much cheaper!!!! Feel free to send me PMs if you have any specific questions and I can share from our experience. Good luck!

[72andsunny]

Hi all,

I seem to have ended up short a transformer. Does anyone know a good place in NZ (or that will ship to NZ) to buy a 1000 or 2000 watt voltage transformer?

Thanks!

[Rubyshoes]

OH will be returning to the States in April, and won't be needing his step up/down voltage regulator anymore that he uses for his DJ equipment. I'd be okay with parting with it if anyone's interested.

[IanW99]

Hi all,

I seem to have ended up short a transformer. Does anyone know a good place in NZ (or that will ship to NZ) to buy a 1000 or 2000 watt voltage transformer?

Thanks!

You could try Trademe - step down transformer (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Electronics-photography/Other-electronics/Adaptors-chargers/auction-278197582.htm) or similar for larger transformer.

Or JayCar (http://www.jaycar.co.nz) and enter e.g. MF1086 (in product search box) for upto 1000W.

DSE do some but don't seem to go as high as you need.

Ian

[GrumpyGoat]

You could try Trademe - step down transformer (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Electronics-photography/Other-electronics/Adaptors-chargers/auction-278197582.htm) or similar for larger transformer.

Or JayCar (http://www.jaycar.co.nz) and enter e.g. MF1086 (in product search box) for upto 1000W.

DSE do some but don't seem to go as high as you need.

Ian

we bought the trade me transformer and can vouch that it works well!!

shipping from US was too expensive. same with australia. I looked for months and this is the best price in NZ.

[villager]

If you own a lot of electronic gear, consider dual wiring

We brought a large whole house transformer, went to Home Depot and purchased 120v house wiring, outlets, boxes and a fuse box. Power is fused at the 230 volt to the transformer following NZ electrical code, then fused again after the transformer following US electrical code. NZ Officials stated that as long as the transformer is properly fused and grounded, they don't worry about what is upstream of the 120 v supply.

We then installed dual power, 120v US outlets next to 230 V power points. We run kitchen appliances, tools, stereo equipment, computer gear and other US sourced equipment with no problem. In our case we built a new home, but with surface wiring, it may be worthwhile considering even if you move to an existing home.

The prices of consumer and commercial goods are so wildly different with some things being close to their US equivalent, and others being outrageously higher.

Not everything we brought was 120v. Before we moved we purchased two Maytag 230 volt washers and two driers and a dishwasher. The electrician put in larger cables because the Maytag equipment draws more power. The extra washer and drier were backups because at the time, the identical model number sold in NZ for 260% more. The backup units sit in the attic gathering dust because Maytag is (or was) a reliable product.

[DejaVoo]

My wife wants to bring her chandelier over from the USA. Any thought on whether this will work in NZ or not?

[Ana&Steve]

My wife wants to bring her chandelier over from the USA. Any thought on whether this will work in NZ or not?
I'm thinking that lighting, lamps and such are easiest converted by replacing all the wiring (and plugs if not hard wired). Is this a good option?

[bluesky]

I'm thinking that lighting, lamps and such are easiest converted by replacing all the wiring (and plugs if not hard wired). Is this a good option?

Surely all you need to do is replace the bulb?

[Ana&Steve]

Surely all you need to do is replace the bulb?
not if it's from teh States, wrong voltage

[Super_BQ]

We brought a large whole house transformer, went to Home Depot and purchased 120v house wiring, outlets, boxes and a fuse box.

My 1st thought is the cost of having such a dual system. When ever I think of a transformer in this application, i'm thinking of the loss of efficiency

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transformer#Energy_losses

"The no-load loss can be significant, meaning that even an idle transformer constitutes a drain on an electrical supply, which encourages development of low-loss..."

One would argue that the amount of loss is insignificant. But if this were true then why all the TV adds by Eco-Energy Report (and other power companies) to tell the public to turn off power right at the wall outlet?

Don't get me wrong, I myself will be implementing a dedicated 120volt setup in my new house but not aimed to service kitchen appliances.

[72andsunny]

not if it's from teh States, wrong voltage

We're running a few US lamps (that have "60W 120V" warnings on the wiring) with NZ bulbs. We've opted for the 14W energy efficient things; so far we have not noticed any problems.

[Ana&Steve]

We're running a few US lamps (that have "60W 120V" warnings on the wiring) with NZ bulbs. We've opted for the 14W energy efficient things; so far we have not noticed any problems.
are they running through a transformer, adapter, or did you change the plug?

[mylesdw]

We're running a few US lamps (that have "60W 120V" warnings on the wiring) with NZ bulbs. We've opted for the 14W energy efficient things; so far we have not noticed any problems.

Should have no problems with just changing the bulbs. A 230V 60W bulb draws less current than the equivalent 120V bulb so the wiring will be more than adequate.

[72andsunny]

are they running through a transformer, adapter, or did you change the plug?

Just a plug adapter (99 cents on Amazon).

[Ana&Steve]

I was not aware of this...I thought it was a different gauge wire, especially if it's hardwired. Guess I need to do more homework...

[Addicted to NZ]

Should have no problems with just changing the bulbs. A 230V 60W bulb draws less current than the equivalent 120V bulb so the wiring will be more than adequate.

I thought I would have to change the wiring in our lamps as well. But hot dawg...this is nice to know!

I bet the OH is going to be happy to hear this.

[GrumpyGoat]

The american electrical wiring is much thicker than the NZ. The system is much safer than the NZ system, as well.

The US system is geared to safety. The lower voltage is obviously safer but it requires a much thicker copper wire to travel making it MUCH more expensive.

The NZ system is much less safe due to the higher voltage and also the 50 hz cycle. The 50 hz cycle is closest to the rhythm of the heart. Getting a jolt from NZ electrical current will stop your heart. The US uses 60 hz for this reason.


So higher voltage will run fine on a thicker wire but not vice versa. NZ electricity can travel on the thicker gauge US wire but it wont' work the other way.


Also, I have heard (but do not know for certain) that many contractors in the UK use the american 110 volt tools because of safety. They just carry around a step down transformer.

[petri]

While the safety arguments are true (although both 50 and 60 Hz are dangerous, DC would be safer), it's not why the North America is 110-120V/60Hz and rest of the world is mostly 220-240V/50Hz today.

The US started electrification first and 100V was Edison's compromise between distribution costs and lamp costs. Later when electricity arrived to Europe through Germany, there were better lamps and 220V was chosen as was cheaper (distribution) and more efficient (less power loss). US had already built so much infrastructure and appliances that it didn't make sense to move to 220V.

US chose 60 Hz as it was slightly better for certain type of lightning and motors. Germans chose 50 Hz because 60 was not a preferred number (1 m = 100 cm vs. 1 foot = 12 inches kind of a thing).


Also, I have heard (but do not know for certain) that many contractors in the UK use the american 110 volt tools because of safety. They just carry around a step down transformer.

That sounds really odd, don't know about the brits but haven't heard of it in the continental Europe nor seen it happen.

There is always a risk but a quick shock from the ordinary 230V/60Hz rarely kills you. Most electric installers have experienced it but it's never recommended, of course. RCD/RCCB's are pretty common safety measure, too.

[Ana&Steve]

GG, very helpful explanation! Can't rep you right now though...

[Duncan74]

The american electrical wiring is much thicker than the NZ. The system is much safer than the NZ system, as well.

The US system is geared to safety. The lower voltage is obviously safer but it requires a much thicker copper wire to travel making it MUCH more expensive.

The NZ system is much less safe due to the higher voltage and also the 50 hz cycle. The 50 hz cycle is closest to the rhythm of the heart. Getting a jolt from NZ electrical current will stop your heart. The US uses 60 hz for this reason.


So higher voltage will run fine on a thicker wire but not vice versa. NZ electricity can travel on the thicker gauge US wire but it wont' work the other way.


Also, I have heard (but do not know for certain) that many contractors in the UK use the american 110 volt tools because of safety. They just carry around a step down transformer.


Ok, in turn. For any given power then the US system uses double the current, and it's current that is the dangerous part. So in that sense the 240v is safer, assuming it's adequately fused as it can trip at half the current. However, there are times when the lower voltage may be safer, as the hsigh voltage has the potential to create a circuit where one wouldn't be. An example is where there is an insulator, such as dirty water, but at higher voltage there is sufficient potential to allow a current to form.

However, because the innefficieny losses are proportional to the square of the current, the 110v is less efficient. This is why it's taken to the extreme in the main supplies at several thousand volts, but with tiny current, to reduce losses.

As for the 50-60hz and heart rates, I'm at a total loss. Heart beats at rest for most adults are 50-90 beats per minute. 50hz is 50 cycles per second. So I'm at a total loss how this fits with the health risks, but interested to hear how it works. And I accept there are a intrabeat electricl rythms in the heart, but I can't see that they can be in line with either 50 or 60 hz given the range in heart rates between adults, let alone the variability that we all have throughout our activities.

As for UK contractors using 110v, that's true. The blue blugs that you see on sites, normally on yellow boxes the size of a breeze block are 110v. Also common on market stalls. I'd never really thought about why we use them.

[NikT]

As for UK contractors using 110v, that's true. The blue blugs that you see on sites, normally on yellow boxes the size of a breeze block are 110v. Also common on market stalls. I'd never really thought about why we use them.

110v on construction sites are yellow plugs & sockets.
Blue plugs and sockets are 240v.

The 110v is from a centre tapped transformer (55v to earth).
Should a power tool become faulty and the casing become live, you should only get a 55v belt.
The only way to get a 110v belt from the transformer is to touch the L-N (secondary side) at the same time.

Nick.:cheers

[Duncan74]

Oops, that's right. Been a few years since I was out getting muddy ;)

And the current is limited to 16amps, so lower power than the 240v which is why it's safer.

[IanW99]

The american electrical wiring is much thicker than the NZ. The system is much safer than the NZ system, as well.

The US system is geared to safety. The lower voltage is obviously safer but it requires a much thicker copper wire to travel making it MUCH more expensive.
...


Interesting to note that if US system is so much safer than NZ then why are there nearly twice as many deaths due to electricity in the US per capita than there are in NZ?

Ian

[Duncan74]

Interesting to note that if US system is so much safer than NZ then why are there nearly twice as many deaths due to electricity in the US per capita than there are in NZ?

Ian

It's soooo tempting to answer that one :D:D:D

[NikT]

Interesting to note that if US system is so much safer than NZ then why are there nearly twice as many deaths due to electricity in the US per capita than there are in NZ?

Ian

Complacency usually. The lower the voltage, the safer people think they are. :no:exit
I used to switch in substations up to 33KV in the UK.
More accidents happened on the networks at the lower voltages.

As for the 60Hz is safer than 50Hz is a new one on me.
Current kills, not frequency.
30mA across the heart is enough if I remember my figures correctly.

Nick.:cheers

[Super_BQ]

I believe the difference in frequency had something to do with Nikola Tesla's design. I recall reading articles at the power generation stations with Westinghouse engineers deciding which was the best frequency of choice (100+ years ago). Remember, when you talk frequency (AC power), you're really talking about Tesla's invention (nothing to do with Thomas Edison as he was against AC power transmissions).

[Ana&Steve]

Interesting to note that if US system is so much safer than NZ then why are there nearly twice as many deaths due to electricity in the US per capita than there are in NZ?

IanIs alcohol involved?;)

[mylesdw]

One would argue that the amount of loss is insignificant. But if this were true then why all the TV adds by Eco-Energy Report (and other power companies) to tell the public to turn off power right at the wall outlet?


My guess is that this is mostly hostoric these days. There is no reason why a bit of modern electronics should draw much current on standby but CRTs are a different proposition. If you want quick start-up you need to keep the CRT warm and hence the high current on standby. I don't know this for a fact, it's just speculation.




Don't get me wrong, I myself will be implementing a dedicated 120volt setup in my new house but not aimed to service kitchen appliances.


Doesn't it worry you that a dual voltage system will have a negative value when you come to sell the house? Unless you can sell to another US immigrant it would be useless and need replacing.

[Super_BQ]

I suppose I could be a bit more detailed. The 120VAC supply is only for my central vacuum system to power the floor head (electrified vacuum hose). Physically there will be no wall plate outlets where you can plug a 120v appliance or device elsewhere in the house so it would have no effect on the house value. If anything, it should ADD more value to the house as electric powered floor head (that powers the brush bar) isn't available in NZ, yet the major brands that supply central vacs in NZ (ie Electrolux/Beam) are American.

We've gone through 2 "Turbo" floor heads where the brush bar is powered off the vacuum's suction. Costing well over $500 for the option, they definitely aren't designed to last long, nor do they have the strong driving power of an electric belt driven version.

The same can be said about lawn mowers. Self propelled front wheel drive mowers don't exist (i've only seen 1 brand that is rear wheel driven). I'm sure if they do exist, the price would be unaffordable.

[Duncan74]

My guess is that this is mostly hostoric these days. There is no reason why a bit of modern electronics should draw much current on standby but CRTs are a different proposition. If you want quick start-up you need to keep the CRT warm and hence the high current on standby. I don't know this for a fact, it's just speculation.


I think that it's back to the transformer again. The TV is a low voltage DC device, so it takes the 240v input and has a transformer to convert to some low voltage DC. And this is what powers the whole TV, including the IR remote sensor. Even if the TV is doing nowt, then the power is still getting to the transformer coils and that produces heat. The only way you could stop that is to have a relay on the input into the transformer that was powered by a smaller transformer that just fed the IR sensor and 'power control' circuit. That of course adds costs / size / weight, and still ends up using some power when on 'standby', albeit not as much as the higher rated main transformer.

[petri]

As for UK contractors using 110v, that's true. The blue blugs that you see on sites, normally on yellow boxes the size of a breeze block are 110v. Also common on market stalls. I'd never really thought about why we use them.

Google tells for Dubai:
"The supply of 220V is fatal but a 110V machines is not. Because most of the people that are using these tools are mostly unskilled labourers, the is less chance of a an accident [if they use lower-voltage machines], and a lower risk of fires as well."

I asked a few construction workers (one electrician, they're building a new house next door) and no one had heard of such.

Interesting thing to learn. Makes the tool market a bit difficult, though, if the professional tools are 110V and the plastic consumer crap is 230V.

[Super_BQ]

I think that it's back to the transformer again.

Indeed it is and that's the sole reason why i'm not going with the PDL brand Modena (Series 800) twin wall outlets because they don't have switches on them.


I asked a few construction workers (one electrician, they're building a new house next door) and no one had heard of such.

That's because in NZ, the electrical wiring is done differently than in the UK. Whoa.. what I actually mean is SOME houses in the UK are wired differently that could present a major electrical accident when 240volt tools fail. The 120volt transformer electrically isolates electrical disasters making it safer.

Electrical tradesmen on the job in NZ would have an RCD device that goes in between the 240vac mains outlet and their electric drill plug. RCD only works if it can measure enough current between all 3 wires (which mimics the case of a short or some electrical fault say a malfunctioning tool). Unfortunately RCD can not always be relied on in the case say in UK because earlier house may of been wired differently (such as having no earth/ground wiring). FYI, in N. America they call RCD as earth loop protection or GFI (ground fault interrupt).

[Duncan74]

At least if your wiring overheats and sets the walls on fire it solves the issue with the dampness and lack of heating in your NZ house.

[kiwishred]

Interesting to note that if US system is so much safer than NZ then why are there nearly twice as many deaths due to electricity in the US per capita than there are in NZ?

IanWell, to answer that you would have to account for differences in IQ, religious beliefs, alcohol tolerance, etc. Luckily we can use Japan as our control. Relatively homogeneous society and they have 50 Hz and 60 Hz in different parts of the country. So, are there different death rates in different regions in Japan ?

As an aside, presumably Japanese appliances and consumer electronics designed for their domestic market are almost certain to work at either frequency. Then, it follows that anything manufactured (or designed) in Japan for export has a good chance of working fine at either frequency as welled. That has been our experience for both a Japanese-branded rice cooker and bread maker that were purchased in the US and are now happily running in NZ via transformer (even though they are labeled for 60 Hz and don't say anything about 50 Hz).

Brent

[Duncan74]

Lots of stuff has 110-240V and 50-60hz on the transformer, so as you say it's all good. However running 50hz stuff at 60hz will increase the temperature of some internal components which is likely to reduce the lifespan, and in some rare cases make them dangerous as the device may not be sufficiently vented / heat shielded.

[Ana&Steve]

At least if your wiring overheats and sets the walls on fire it solves the issue with the dampness and lack of heating in your NZ house.

:laugh *snort*

[bananamuffin]

Thought I should mention this in case anyone else needs to know. I just called Bose to ask about my portable Bose sound dock. They said the power pack will work just fine, all I need to get is a power clip set that will plug into the power pack to accommodate the different shape of the wall outlets. The clip set is just under US$6 :)

[islandmonger]

Hi Rich ...........Thanks a lot for all this information, it really helps. jk

[magcats]

Thought I should mention this in case anyone else needs to know. I just called Bose to ask about my portable Bose sound dock. They said the power pack will work just fine, all I need to get is a power clip set that will plug into the power pack to accommodate the different shape of the wall outlets. The clip set is just under US$6 :)

Bananamuffin,
Are you referring to the dual voltage Bose? I have one and was curious what I might need for it to work ok in NZ...especially since Bose said that they wouldn't honor the warranty once I had it in NZ.

Thanks!

[Dell]

raising this thread so I can find it again!

[canajanz]

Google tells for Dubai:
"The supply of 220V is fatal but a 110V machines is not. Because most of the people that are using these tools are mostly unskilled labourers, the is less chance of a an accident [if they use lower-voltage machines], and a lower risk of fires as well."

I asked a few construction workers (one electrician, they're building a new house next door) and no one had heard of such.

Interesting thing to learn. Makes the tool market a bit difficult, though, if the professional tools are 110V and the plastic consumer crap is 230V.


I dont know how you figure that but it will come as big news to the families of people who have been electrocuted by 110v supplies

DC is not as often lethal but without a good RCD 110v KILLS

[mylesdw]

Electrical tradesmen on the job in NZ would have an RCD device that goes in between the 240vac mains outlet and their electric drill plug. RCD only works if it can measure enough current between all 3 wires (which mimics the case of a short or some electrical fault say a malfunctioning tool). Unfortunately RCD can not always be relied on in the case say in UK because earlier house may of been wired differently (such as having no earth/ground wiring). FYI, in N. America they call RCD as earth loop protection or GFI (ground fault interrupt).

That's not my understanding. The whole advance made by RCDs is that they don't need an earth to work; they simply detect an imbalance between live and neutral. The GFI that you mention (or ELT Earth Leakage Trip) was, in the UK at least, the predecessor to the RCD. If the RCD had been invented sooner I wonder if the whole 110V site tool thing in the UK would exist.

[Falcon_XR6]

OK, it's an old thread which I am not attempting to reading through 20 pages of, but how does Double Insulated (the two concentric squares symbol) affect the safety of not getting a lethal shock from a device? I'm not a sparks, so can anyone answer this???

I always thought that you are just as dead with 110/120v as you are with 220/240v if a tool malfunctions and exposes you to mains voltage.
Isn't it the Amps that is dangerous and not the voltage? And doesn't lower voltage mean more amps? Or have I got that wrong?

The one thing that did worry me here is that the plugs have NO fuses so you are stuck with what ever fuses are on the distribution board.
And try as I might, I can't figure out what logic was used in how Kiwi houses are wired, what ever happened to a good old Ring Main.
I can shut down the lights in my house from the distribution board (remove the fuses) and one of them (1 of a pair of separate wall lights) still works !!!

Cheers
G

[mylesdw]

OK, it's an old thread which I am not attempting to reading through 20 pages of, but how does Double Insulated (the two concentric squares symbol) affect the safety of not getting a lethal shock from a device? I'm not a sparks, so can anyone answer this???


Double insulated is constructed in such a way as to make it (almost) impossible for you to get a shock if a fault develops. Take an old fashioned electric drill with a metal case. Assume the live wire falls off within the drill and contacts the case. What is meant to happen is that the case is earthed via the flex, current flows to earth, the fuse blows and you are safe. BUT it all depends on the connection to earth being good. If the earth is not connected, either in the plug or elsewhere in the building the drill case will go live and you may fry. A double insulated drill does not depend upon a good earth, nor does it need one at all. Chances are it will have a plastic case and all sorts of other design features to ensure that you cannot touch a live part even if a fault develops.



I always thought that you are just as dead with 110/120v as you are with 220/240v if a tool malfunctions and exposes you to mains voltage.
Isn't it the Amps that is dangerous and not the voltage? And doesn't lower voltage mean more amps? Or have I got that wrong?


It is the current flowing that kills you. People have been known to electrocute themselves from quite low voltages. But, the body and particularly the skin has an electrical resistance so the higher the voltage the more likely the current is to flow.



The one thing that did worry me here is that the plugs have NO fuses so you are stuck with what ever fuses are on the distribution board.
And try as I might, I can't figure out what logic was used in how Kiwi houses are wired, what ever happened to a good old Ring Main.
I can shut down the lights in my house from the distribution board (remove the fuses) and one of them (1 of a pair of separate wall lights) still works !!!


Yes, considering most of the buildings are wooden, it seems a mistake not to have fuses in plugs. I assume some joker has spliced your wall lights into one of the plug circuits.

[Falcon_XR6]

Thanks Myles for clearing those few points up.

Cheers
G